It’s connected to French bistro Madame Sou Sou by a doorway and a peephole servery, but Le Cellier is an experience of its own.

The Sou Sou little sister food-and-wine bar on Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, trades in rustic breads, beef bourguignon pie and tiny French cakes. With French styled cafe chairs, exposed timber beams, milky marble splash-backs and a front window full of salads, tarts and pickles, it’s a study in European style from owner Theo Tsapepas.

The wine cabinet walls start closer to home than the Continental feel of the place and cover everything from Innocent Bystander to Moet, so you’ll easily find a price tag to suit. And with that roast gently steaming under the glossy copper heat lamp, it’s hard to find a reason not to sit in. But if you’re in a rush the $13.50 lunchbox to-go of baguette, salad and financier (think friand) makes Le Cellier a great take-away lunch option.

It might be petite, but it packs a hefty French punch. Bon appetite.