What was once a wine shop in the 1900s is today the most casual of Guy Grossi's dinning rooms on Bourke Street, The Cellar Bar.

Wrought iron chandeliers aluminate the dark wood interior with warm light, intimate circular granite tables are tightly packed and tall leather upholstered stools line the bar that runs down one side of the room.

Open early for breakfast and late through to dinner, this eatery makes remarkable mood transformations. There an energetic breakfast rush, a boisterous lunch hour, late afternoon espressos taken over by romantic tables of two and four by nightfall.

During peak dining hours, the wholesome aroma of stewing Roma tomatoes and freshly cooked pasta fills the air. Attentive waiters inform you of the daily specials, which are also scribbled on blackboard and usually include classic Italian dishes like spaghetti bolognese, veal cotoletta or hearty bruschetta. Wash it down with a glass of wine from a long list of Australian and European drops.

Though more modest than Grossi’s neighbouring restaurants (Florentino Grill next door and Grossi Florentino upstairs), The Cellar Bar shows how simple Italian food brings wholesome comfort at any time of day.