With its moody lighting, bistro chairs and theatrical velvet drapes, Bohemian feels more like Toulouse-Lautrec’s Paris than modern-day Madrid, but that’s where the food steps in. Spanish chef Josep Espuga landed in Melbourne via San Sebastian’s two Michelin-starred Mugaritz and more recently, headed-up the kitchen at Degustation in New York’s East Village.

Here, his share-friendly tapas menu strikes a balance between the straight-up traditional (house-made chorizo and great paella the stars) and some decidedly more creative mod-Spanish angles. Think cochinillo (rich, roast suckling pig served with a sweet, creamy carrot ice-cream), sticky quail thigh ‘lollipops’ or the classic patatas bravas, reinvented here in tubular form, crispy on the outside, with a soft potato interior.

The gorgeous waterside location can be tricky to get to, but diners are rewarded with warm service, great wines and some seriously authentic Spanish fare.

Bohemian

35 Dukes Walk South Wharf

(03) 9682 0566

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