From the dark, herringbone timber floors to the soft, antique lights hanging from the ceiling ... Orio Randi and Emma Clarke have built The Way To San Jose from the ground up. And, as you’d expect from the man behind Arteveneta, who has fitted out and built furniture for some of Melbourne’s most iconic restaurants like The Commons and Izakaya Den, it is beautiful. Randi welded the windows, added the stained glass, built the smooth, solid dark bar and the tabletops. Even the toilets are finished with the same attention to detail for which he is known.

The menu has a strong northern Italian influence and, where possible, everything is made in-house. The main focus is pizza – which comes out of an old fashioned, light-blue electric pizza oven with a thin, perfectly cooked base and simple high-quality toppings. There are a number of other dishes available, from the antipasti to pastas, insalati and specials like the Duck Lasagna or Spezzatinno.

Located in a charming but somewhat lacklustre strip in McKinnon, San Jose, is exactly what the suburban community was waiting for.