The Hell of the North is the name given to a one-day, 260km bike event in the north of France, considered to be hellish due to the roads ridden during the race, many of which are cobbled with bluestone. When Adam Ferrante, co-owner of the Fitzroy bistro Hell of the North, was building the interior, it was such hard work that notions of hell sprung to mind.

Hell of the North is where the Lambs Go Bar once sat on the Smith Street end of Greeves Street. Now a bar and bistro, Ferrante, who also runs the Rose Street Artsts' Market, describes the space as “elegant but casual”.

The space designed by Lucas Chirnside of SMLWRLD is contained, cosy and modern. There’s the warmth of wood with an industrial edge, but they’ve added classic bistro touches, brass and blackened steel to a room that was once on the shabby side.

The food is termed as classic bistro, but don’t think just French. The menu presents a broad range of flavours that is internationally-inspired. The wine list is an eclectic mix of mostly European wines.

It’s a good thing, as the Hell of the North is a place where liver pate and steak tartare sit nicely between a bottle of wine with friends.

The road to hell may be paved with good intentions but this bluestone path is filled with some decent food and wine.