Naming a restaurant after the French word for “as” may seem a little unassuming, unless it happens to be Comme. Comme, in this sense actually stands for "socially obligatory", and that it is. The bistro’s chartreuse and black sign and marble foyer heralds the sort of Manhattan glamour only found down a Collins Street laneway.

Comme’s fondness for first impressions extends to the food and wine. Stylishly interpreting French staples such as confit chicken and Burgundy snails, Comme’s menu is as much a beacon for investment bankers and fashion types as its sleek minimalism.

A destination in its own right, the candlelit wine room offers a well-edited wine list, leather ottomans and miniature meat pies – and it may be the only place in Melbourne where you can devour an unlimited supply of peanuts under designer chandeliers.