The neat +39 sign that swings outside an unassuming black and white shop front on Little Bourke Street says it all for some. Owner Remo Nicolini, formerly of Pizza Espresso with his brother Tony, has banged this prefix for international calls to Italy with the ambitious subtitle of Pizzeria and Antipasteria.

By day, the space operates as a cafe with a simple menu of piadinas and paninos, reasonably priced pizzas and a selection of pastas. The pizza dough is fine, and puffed by a roaring pizza oven, providing the perfect base for combinations such as the Tirolese, which arrives with gooey mozzarella, marscapone, caramelized leek and speck.

Of course, if you don't feel like eating pizza, +39 also does a phenomenal array of antipasti, as well as pastas, salads, risottos and desserts.

We all know that asking for more parmesan is tiresome too, so small touches – such as a grinder filled with a square of Parmigiano-Reggiano for each table – make the dining experience all the more seamless.