The neat +39 that swings outside an unassuming black and white shop front in Little Burke Street says it all for some. Owner Remo Nicolini, formerly of Pizza Espresso with brother Tony, has banged this prefix for international calls to Italy to the ambitious title of pizzeria and degustation bar.

During the day it operates as a cafe with a simple menu of piadinas and paninos, reasonably priced pizzas and a selection of pastas. The pizza dough is nice and fine, and puffed by a roaring pizza oven, providing the perfect base for combinations such as the Tirolese, which arrives with gooey mozzarella, marscapone, caramelized leek and speck.

But if you decide on a degustation board, don’t take a light-hearted approach. Go for the mixed degustation or the Italian cheesy one. If you’re lucky the latter will arrive with a milky fior di late with olive and pink salt for dressing, a mound of soft fresh ricotta (drizzle it with the truffle honey), and a burrata from Puglia that oozes its creamy centre with a quick prick of a knife.

If you don’t like loud spaces, be warned, it’s a concrete box filled with unclothed tables, charming Italian wait staff, plus rowdy diners.

Asking for more parmesan is just tiresome, so small touches - such as a grinder filled with a square of Parmigiano-Reggiano - to a table make the dining experience all the more seamless.