When Riverland opened, it was a fantastic city refuge hidden away from the tourism of Federation Square. Now that the secret’s out that there’s an alfresco beer hall right on the water in Melbourne, it can still confound many seekers with its elusive location.

A plunging, dark stair right before the bridge on the square reveals a long space nestled into the old river vaults dotted with shades, umbrellas and leafy trees. Given the right weather, it’ll also be pressed with good-looking 20- to 40-somethings all drinking ice-cold beers, wines and gin & tonics. It’s a little overwhelming to realise how many people are in the know now, with active waterside refreshment creating great bustle along the space.

Riverland’s offerings are shrewd and lean. A straightforward formula keeps most happy with easily recognisable beer fonts, which are matched by a clean, accessible wine list and basic mixed drinks. The food is for serious snackers, with charcuterie and gourmet hotdogs ruling the roost, the latter being issued from their own custom hotdog grill that often sees healthy lines.

While Riverland isn’t Melbourne’s cheapest watering hole, the views and the Yarra’s cooling influence make it a must in summer.