eturning home from a six-month stint abroad, Hoboken owner Hugh Thorn found himself in a bit of a pickle. What started as a relaxing sojourn through Europe and the US quickly turned into something of a fanatical research trip. When Thorn returned, he found himself in a city that had suddenly become obsessed with burgers. “If I had only been that little bit earlier I could have claimed I’d initiated it!” he laughs.

Deciding to take what they’d learnt from the history of the burger (“It originated with Mongolian Tartar warriors invading Russia in the 13th century”), right up to the latest fads (the Millers potato bread bun in New York) and all the classic elements they loved the most, Thorn and his team began tinkering and trialling to get things just right.

Thorn enlisted the help of baker Dan Younger, a man who has “a deep understanding of what makes a great burger” and the two set out to source products as ethically and as locally possible, grinding the meat in house and using a cloche to bring out the softness and sheen. They then conducted “40 days and nights of physical development and numerous testing sessions on an understanding band of volunteers”.

“Now we have managed to pretty much nail our take,” says Thorn. “A totally organic fast food burger!”

But just as important as the burger is the vegetable accompaniment. The hand-cut, thrice-cooked fries are an absolute must. “Potatoes are treated with the same respect as meat,” says Thorn. The product is a crunchy, creamy, starchy dream on the side of one’s plate, with plenty of sauces to be found on the tabletops.

It’s all going down Wednesday to Saturday nights from 6pm. There’s only going to be 60 burgers a night, so first in best dressed. We predict these babies are going to go like lightning. And for all those red beans and rice fans out there, never fear, they aren’t going anywhere.

Hoboken
3 Hosier Lane, Melbourne

Hours
Mon & Tues 7.30am–4pm
Wed to Sat 7.30am–10pm
Sun 9am–4pm