The menu focus is top-quality seafood, shaped by consulting chef Paul Wilson (Middle Park Hotel and Ex-Botanical). Wilson is a passionate supporter of sustainable fishing practices, so your ‘whole fish a la plancha’ (on the grill) can probably be traced back to the boat that brought it in.

Melbourne designers Six Degrees are responsible for the sleek new look of the bistro space (they did the sister refurbishment at Middle Park Hotel). With ornamental fish tanks above the servery, a view to the drama of the kitchen, catch-of-the-day displays and lobster pot lights, there’s plenty to look at.

There is a nod to fish ’n’ chip history, with newspaper-wrapping menus and chalkboards for daily specials. It might be all in a day’s work for owners Tom Walker (Middle Park Hotel) and Julian Gerner (Middle Park Hotel and Royal Saxon), but we love that fish ’n’ chips at the pub has been gussied up and pulled out at all the stops.